Serenity, light and spirituality: St Petka Monastery in winter

published on 1/8/25 3:48 PM

Photo: Венета Николова

Quiet among the Lyulin Mountain slopes, the Klisura Monastery of St. Petka is marked by mystery and radiates spirituality. It is located only 7 km from the resort town of Bankya, near the village of Klisura. Winter is the time when the holy monastery seems to sink deeper into silence, away from the worldly bustle.

As we drive along the narrow road to St Petka, our eyes linger on the snow-covered mountain slopes glistening in the winter sun. Passing through the tall monastery gate, we are embraced by the scents of burnt wood from the monastery stoves, incense and wax.

The cold air cuts like a knife on this January morning, and the snow crunches softly under our feet as we walk around the well-tended courtyard and finally stand in front of the small monastery church. Warmth wafts through the open door, beckoning us to enter - not just to warm ourselves, but to light a candle and gaze at the frescoes, their colours flickering slightly in the glow of the candlelight.

Founded in the 13th century, the monastery was the spiritual centre of a large lavra that united numerous sketes and monasteries in what is known as the Holy Mountain of Sofia (a reference to Mount Athos in Greece, also known as the Holy Mountain - ed). According to legend, in 1238, a procession was transporting the relics of St. Petka of Bulgaria to Tarnovo when it was halted by order of Tsar Ivan Asen II. The place where the procession paused was consecrated by the incorrupt body of the saint, which inspired the local Christians to build a church there.

The monastery, however, has had a turbulent history. In the 19th century, a great fire destroyed its invaluable archives and library, and the old church collapsed. It was revived in the 20th century, when a group of Russian nuns arrived in Bulgaria. At their head was Abbess Maria Dokhtorova (1896-1978), known in secular life as Lydia Nikolaevna.

After difficult years of wandering in different countries, she found her spiritual vocation here, among the heights of Lyulin Mountain. Mother Mary took on the task of restoring the monastery. Under her devoted care the church of St. Petka of Tarnovo was renovated in 1954. A Russian monk, whose name remains unknown, was invited to paint the walls. The beautiful frescoes depict full-length images of Bulgarian and Russian saints, as well as biblical and hagiographic scenes.

St. Petka monastery continued to flourish in the 21st century, when the spacious Rotunda of the Dormition of the Theotokos was built in the courtyard. The outer walls of the residential section are adorned with quotes from the Bible, adding to the feeling of spiritual strength, purity, and holiness.

The monastery has been run by Mother Philothea and other nuns since 2002. They welcome visitors who stop to light a candle and seek solitude away from the noise of everyday life. As a place marked by the centuries, where past and present are intertwined,the Klisura Monastery of 'St. Petka' is one of Bulgaria's notable sanctuaries, a symbol of hope and the enduring strength of the spirit.