The Rhodope Caterpillar - the train that crosses mountains and time

published on 1/24/25 7:27 PM

Photo: Bozhidar Cholakov

"The Rhodope Caterpillar" - that's what they call the train that winds along the slopes of the Rhodope Mountains on the route Dimitrovgrad - Haskovo - Kardzhali - Podkova village. And no, this is not the legendary narrow-gauge railway - it runs in a different part of the mountain. The Caterpillar is just an ordinary diesel engine with modern railcars. The comparison with a caterpillar is no coincidence! With its cars swaying rhythmically around the bends, the train really does resemble a lazy caterpillar, travelling at 40-60 km/h, and in some places as slow as 25 km/h, seemingly enjoying every moment of the journey. And here's a fun detail - the scenic railway route takes about 3 hours to complete and a one-way ticket costs just 6-7 BGN (less than 4 euro).

The most enchanting part of the journey begins after Most station, where the train crosses a scenic pass as it enters the Kardzhali region. "From there, passengers are treated to incredible panoramic views of the Studen Kladenets reservoir, the medieval fortress of Monyak and the majestic rock formations soaring over the tracks," says Bozhidar Cholakov - a journalist from BNR Kardzhali, a passionate fan of Bulgarian State Railways (BDZ) and the creator of the Facebook page celebrating The Rhodope Caterpillar. "There is a gem waiting to be explored at almost every stop, starting from the southernmost point of the railway - the village of Podkova," Bozhidar says, adding:

"Recently, the wooden Mosque of the Seven Maidens in the village of Podkova has become very popular and well visited. It is only 700 metres from the station. And now, with the new BDZ timetable for 2025, with the midday train to Podkova, people can make a day trip to the Eastern Rhodopes to enjoy these delightful sites and come back with the 'Caterpillar' at the end of the day.

The mystery of the wooden mosque in Podkova village in the Rhodopes

The next interesting stop is Momina Skala, where travellers can get to the longest rope bridge in Bulgaria, leading to the village of Lisitsite - an isolated village with only 15-20 inhabitants, accessible only on foot or by train," says Bozhidar.

The Rhodope Caterpillar is not just a train - it is a bridge to history. From Lisitsite, a hike leads to Chitkaya, where rock niches above the village are thought to have served as ancient Thracian sanctuaries.

The rope bridge to the village of Lisitsite

Shiroko Pole Station is the starting point for the medieval fortress of Monyak - one of the most impressive fortresses in the Eastern Rhodopes. It is a 40-50 minute walk from the centre of the village of Shiroko Pole, says Bozidar Cholakov. And he recommends another route starting from the Sredna Arda railway station, located in a nature reserve:

"The station itself is situated right on the shore of the Studen Kladenets dam, offering a stunning panoramic view. Rock niches and small caves, home to bats, can be spotted just above the station. Passengers can also disembark at Kaluyantsi station, which is the starting point for a hike to Yumruk Kaya, a peak above the village of Kaluyantsi. The Caterpillar also passes the village of Ptichar, the birthplace of world-famous weightlifter Naim Süleymanoğlu. In recent years, the local community has been working to restore his childhood home and create a museum to honour his legacy," explains Bozhidar Cholakov.

More and more tourists are using the Caterpillar for day trips to explore the hidden corners of the Eastern Rhodopes. Thus the Dimitrovgrad-Podkova train, which began as a means of transport, has established itself as a worthy rival to the narrow-gauge railway, attracting those who love slow, scenic and romantically nostalgic journeys.

Photos: Bozhidar Cholakov

Translated and posted in English by E. Radkova

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